Six months from now, deep in a January freeze, it will be hard to recall these shining summer days. Birdsong has been replaced by the late afternoon droning of insects. Early summer flowers start to fade and goldenrods and asters brighten the roadside. The harvest season is in high gear with all manner of ripe fruits and vegetables in abundance at local farmstands. Vibrant colors overflow the wooden bins at Rosedale Farm, The Garlic Farm and, further afield, Blossoming Acres. They’re like an artist’s palette, providing inspiration for a creative late summer meal.
Years ago, I lived in a tiny cottage at the edge of what is now a Nature Conservancy property in Nissequogue, Long Island. A path wound through the woods past a hidden patch of blackberries and out onto the dunes of the Long Island Sound. With the air heady with salt spray, pine and honeysuckle, I’d fill a pail with berries the color of ink then return home to make this simple berry dish.
Blueberries and blackberries offer a mix of textures and flavor, where the tartness of blackberries balances the sweetness of the blueberries.
Black and Blue Compote
(makes 4 1/2 cups)
Ingredients
3 cups blueberries
3 cups blackberries
1 cup plus 2 Tablespoons water
1 1/2 cups brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup*
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
Fresh lemon juice
Directions
Place berries in heavy saucepan with 1 cup cold water. Cover and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes until berries soften.
Uncover and add the sugars, corn syrup and salt—return to a boil.
In a small bowl stir together the cornstarch and 2 Tablespoons of water. Stir until smooth and add to the saucepan, stirring.
Simmer until the compote has slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add lemon juice to taste once the compote has cooled. Serve warm or cold over ice cream, yogurt or pancakes, even oatmeal.
* Corn syrup, while it adds a smooth texture, is not necessary and can be left out.